The Malecón, a broad walking boulevard stretching about a km along the waterfront is the best place to get the flavour of the commercial port city of Veracruz. We had arrived by plane from Cancun. A two hour plane ride had seemed the better option than a 20 hour bus ride, besides the rate we got with Volaris airline was cheaper than the first class bus.

Veracruz was the first town established by the Spanish in Mexico in 1519 and became the start of a major trading route across the isthmus to the Pacific Ocean. Now, container ships wait in the port to be loaded with cars, especially VWs, manufactured in Mexico and transported to Veracruz on one of the few rail lines still functioning in the country.

As you stroll along the length of the Malecón you pass statues and fountains depicting the city’s history and the port’s significance. A large fortress, Castillo de San Juan de Ulúa, looks impregnable across the harbour. It was built to protect the city from regular attacks from pirates and English, French and Dutch buccaneers. It was almost never successful as the invaders would land along the coast and attack by land. The fort remains, open to tourists, every day but Monday, the day we wandered the city.

Baluarte de Santiago, built in 1635, is the sole survivor of nine forts built along a 2650 km sea wall as part of the defense of the city. It now stands across the street from our Hotel Baluarte, three blocks from the ocean with cannons facing the traffic.